Read a bunch in to this, looks like the most popular reviews based on experience in our cars yielded the following "best" options. Pennzoil Syncromesh 2. I think what i'll end up doing is buying 2 bottles of the syncromesh and topping it off with some 10w since the capacity is 2. Hope this helps someone else out! TegSox Super Duper Moderator. I've stuck with OEM Honda mtf in my ' Change it out frequently and it works good, and good for cold weather use being on the thinner side.
Switched back to the Honda MTF, trans likes it much better. Just used the honda mtf was grinding in 5th after the change over and a few k the grind went away Sent from my SM-NW using Tapatalk. I use it but honestly can't really tell a difference between it and OEM. You must log in or register to reply here. Redline makes excellent oil and motor products, and I have heard many good things about switching to redline.
It is synthetic oil, so it will provide less drag on the transmission, and will resist breakdown longer. Mobil One is much easier to find locally then Redline, and it is slightly cheaper. Mobil One lists the following benefits. It is often compared to Redline in terms of quality, yet it is almost unheard by most people. It is also repackaged by GM and called "Syncromesh". Originally it was a dino oil BG Syncroshift , but they recently came out with a new synthetic formula dubbed "Syncroshift II".
I have read about all sorts of transmission problems that were cured by BG Syncroshift, the downside is I had a hard time finding any real information about the product itself, BG's website doesn't even mention it.
It's a very mysterious transmission oil. Space is the hardest part to changing the transmission oil. That is why it is important to have several different length extensions for your wrench and breaker-bar. You may want to spray both bolts down with penetrating oil, as they are likely to be on very tight. Remove the filler plug first. This way if for some reason you can't remove one of the plugs, you are not stuck with a transmission that has no oil. You will need to use the breaker bar, and remember that counterclockwise is to remove the nut, clockwise is to tighten it.
Both of the nuts are extremely tight, so you may have to work at them a bit. They will come off, you use have to put some muscle into it. Once you break the nut free, you can switch to the socket wrench and remove the filler nut. Clean off the nut and replace the crushed washer. Briansol Admins Admin. Honda MTF is the shit.
Use GM synchromesh transmission fluid with friction modifier. You should only need 2 quarts too. If in doubt, look it up in your owner's manual. On the other hand, if you aren't having any problems with your transmission now, don't switch from the MTF if you're not sure about going to the synchromesh. Ive heard great things about sycromesh I've been using Amsoil 0w20or30 full synthetic motor oil in mine for over 10yrs and only change it around every 5 or so..
It's usually x the change interval of petrolium base. Actually My 92 accord had k on it when bought, It's now around and only changed it once in 7yrs, and still shifting wonderful.
My other cars usually get sold before I change it out. Very nice. I change out my GM synchromesh every k miles. It's probably more often than needed, but that interval has always worked for me. On a side note this is a trick that i have learned over the years that will help keep your trans alive. This will raise the fluid level up higher providing more lube to 4th and 5th gears and most importantly keep the Input bearing lubed and help keep it from failing which is a very comon problem in a honda transmission.
When ever i build a performance transmission for some one i actually weld in a new fill plug at the fluid level that i prefer and this seams to keep them alive much longet in high hp cars so it has to help with your DD.
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