I can adapt the flooring panels to irregularities like this by using these shims designed to fit right on the molded panel bottoms. If necessary, I can stack up to 4 of them on top of each other.
A bit of masking tape helps hold them in place as I turn the panel over. I'm at the end of the first row and here I'll need something less than a full panel. I just measure the space, set my fence to the same dimension and make the cut on my table saw. A hand held circular saw or jigsaw would also do the trick.
The cut piece drops right into place. However, I can't use a hammer and tapping block to pull up the joint.
So I'll do it with this tool called a pinch bar. It slips into the gap next to the wall and hooks over the edge of the panel. The opposite end is bent upward to form a striking surface. A few hammer blows and the job is done. I'm about to begin the second row and I've laid out a few panels here to make a point. And that is that I'm going to be staggering my joints. Now these joints on the first row, I've outlined in blue tape so you can see them more easily.
You notice the joints in the second row are going to fall in the center of the boards on the first row. Think of it this way:. This panel right here is going to lock this panel and this panel together and when I'm all finished, I'm going to have a much more stable floor. When I get to the doorway, it's time to do a different kind of trimming.
I need to notch out a panel to fit around this corner. The easiest way is to set the panel in place. Then use a straight edge or square to extend the wall lines onto the board.
A jigsaw makes cutting out the notch quick and simple. This kind of sub floor would be ideal for finishing a basement where you might already be concerned about a low ceiling. This raises the floor a very, very small amount. So what you're getting is a vapor barrier, a finished surface and insulating value, all from a product that's less than an inch thick. Well I'm down to the last couple of pieces. You know the real beauty of a sub floor like this is how quickly it goes in.
Well it looks pretty good, doesn't it? Now this would be an ideal sub floor for wood, carpet, vinyl or laminate. But since this is my garage and workshop, I've got something else in mind. This is called G floor from Better Life Technologies. It's a garage floor covering that comes in 9 foot widths and simply rolls out. I was thinking of the product while we were there and hopefully will get an opportunity to work with it as an alternative.
I think you may be somewhat right on the fire potential. As for the rim joist, post is coming on that. This is a remodel of an end unit townhome. That subfloor caulking gun saved a lot of crawling on the knees, as well as a bad back ache- definitely a handy tool for the job. One other thing on the plywood sheathing. Also, the best application to prevent squeaks is to glue and screw the sheathing but most people opt for glue and nails. I am replacing the subfloor in a second floor bathroom due to some water damage.
I was planning on using glue and screws since I do not have a nail gun. What kind of screws would you recommend for this job? How important is it to have the subfloor plywood lay across the joists compared to having the 4 x 8 sheet laying the long part of the sheet the same direction of the joists.
I am replacing a floor that was done 25 years ago. This is how they laid the sheets. I plan on putting some type of block under the joists about half way. Is this a good idea or a bad one? Name required. Mail will not be published required. Hi, we're Ethan, Jocie, Kim and Fred. Over the last eight years we've documented hundreds of home improvement and DIY craft projects along with many tool and material reviews.
Thanks for visiting! Share 6. Pin 4. November 1, at am. Amy GreenGardenista says:. November 1, at pm. Fred says:. July 29, at pm. Jonathan says:. December 2, at pm. John Mitch says:. November 7, at pm. September 2, at pm. January 9, at pm. Click here to cancel reply. It also serves as the vapor barrier when finished with paint. Insulation should be in full contact with the air barrier layer. Whole-house draft barriers block air flow that can undermine the thermal protection with a complete high-performance insulation system.
What this means to you is less wasted energy along with enhanced comfort, quiet, and durability. The Building America Field Kit allows you to save items to your profile for review or use on-site. Sign Up or Log In. Floor Above Garage Print. Scope Images. Seal all seams, gaps, and holes in the subfloor air barrier with caulk or foam. Air seal rim joists and any holes in the top plate of the garage walls. Install insulation without misalignments, compressions, gaps, or voids.
Install supports to keep insulation in permanent contact with the air barrier above, for example, metal staves for batt insulation or netting for blown insulation. If spray foam insulation is used for the floor cavity insulation, the spray foam can serve as the air barrier if it is at least 5. Consider a combination of spray foam and fibrous insulation to thoroughly air seal and meet insulation R-value requirements.
Figure 1. When insulation is not in contact with the subfloor above, moving air has the opportunity to wash over the insulation, degrading its insulating value. Figure 2. The joints between the top and bottom plates, rim joist, and subfloor in platform framing present many opportunities for air infiltration How to Insulate and Air Seal the Floor above an Attached Garage Install a subfloor that can serve as a continuous air barrier between the garage and the rooms above.
In most cases, this air barrier will be plywood or OSB floor sheathing. Install the subfloor sheathing panels according to APA Sturd-I-Floor recommendations, which includes the following APA : Install subfloor in panel widths that align with the framing typically , , or inches on-center.
Stagger subfloor panel end joints. Use tongue-and-groove subfloor panels or install blocking beneath panel joints. Apply construction adhesive or caulk at panel seams and between subfloor panel and framing members.
Figure 3. Seams in the subfloor are sealed with construction adhesive so that the subfloor can serve as an air barrier separating the garage from the living space above. Air seal the band and rim joists and any penetrations. Block off any open floor joists running from the garage ceiling to under other parts of the home to prevent the infiltration of airborne pollutants EPA Use an air barrier material such as plywood, sheathing, rigid foam, or OSB see Figure 4.
Do not use batt insulation for air sealing. Figure 4. Use plywood, OSB, or another rigid material to block floor joists that connect the garage ceiling to the rest of the house. If I-joists are used, the blocking material must be cut to fit the shape. This can be done with filler strips as shown in Figure 4. Or, the corners of the blocking may be cut to fit around the I-joist flanges, as shown in Figure 5. Seal the edges of the blocking with a one- or two-part foam sealant or caulk.
Foam sealant will work better and last longer than caulk. Spray foam can be used to cover the whole air barrier Figure 6 to fill small voids and cracks to effectively stop air flow, while also providing additional R-value DOE Figure 5. Cut the air barrier material to fit the shape of the joist bay. Figure 6. Spray foam effectively fills the irregularities around I-joists while providing a tight air seal and insulation in one step. Install insulation in the floor joists.
Insulation should be fully "aligned" with the air barrier, i. There can be no gaps between the insulation and the sheathing above it EPA Batt insulation should fit tightly between the floor joists but avoid gaps, compressions, or voids. Batts should be fully lofted not crammed or compressed into the space, see Figure 6. Batts should be cut lengthwise to fit narrow joist bays, and split to fit neatly around electrical wiring running across joist bays.
Figure 7. Unfaced batt insulation completely fills the joist cavities and will maintain contact with the subfloor above once ceiling drywall is installed.
Blown-in fiberglass or cellulose is especially effective for insulating garage ceilings when webbed floor trusses are used because it can fill in voids around the trusses.
First install netting or the ceiling drywall to hold the insulation. Install the blown-in insulation to the correct volume and density to maintain contact with the subfloor above and prevent settling.
Confirm with the insulation manufacturer or installer that the drywall will hold the weight of the insulation needed EPA Spray foam insulation can be used to insulate the floor above a garage as well as the band joist.
0コメント